In Flanders Fields

Six weeks ago we began our European trip with a tour of Normandy's D-Day beaches. The decaying pill-boxes and rusting Mulberry harbour are the only remains of that horrific day in June '44.














The American cemetery with its row upon row of crosses reminded us of the scale of those killed that day. In Australia, we have no such cemeteries, since we are fortunate to not have had large-scale war on our own lands. But seeing these memorials made me be grateful for life.





Yesterday we visited Ypres and the fields of Flanders. Again we took a tour and witnessed the rows of crosses. However, the number of cemeteries is much more numerous here - to commemorate the half a million young lives killed on Belgium's fields.




We stood where Canadian surgeon poet John McCrae wrote in May 1915:

In Flanders fields the poppies blow
Between the crosses, row on row,
That mark our place; and in the sky
The larks, still bravely singing, fly
Scarce heard amid the guns below.

We are the Dead. Short days ago
We lived, felt dawn, saw sunset glow,
Loved and were loved, and now we lie
In Flanders fields.

Take up our quarrel with the foe:
To you from failing hands we throw
The torch; be yours to hold it high.
If ye break faith with us who die
We shall not sleep, though poppies grow
In Flanders fields.

Each year I have listened to those speeches of the horrors of war at Anzac Day. But somehow the rows of crosses has sunk the message home in a way never felt before.

At the end of our trip tomorrow, we are to board a ferry at Dunkirk to have our own evacuation across the Channel to return to England shores.
I am now ready to go home.

Keeping in the Loop

As Aussies overseas we have tried to keep in contact with family, friends and news events. Each weekend, I check on how Geelong have been performing in preparing for another attempt at the AFL premiership.

But over the past month I have been focused on developments in our national politics, and how strange a picture it has been. When I left the country, Labour was riding high in the saddle. They had steered us through the worst of the GFC, their policies in education, the environment, and broadband seemed to be popular. Kevin Rudd's high poll ratings made him look invincible. The Libs were still sorting through the rubble of Abbott and Turnbull.

Well, how wrong we were. The political world changed dramatically while our backs were turned. Next thing I know, Julia Gillard has eliminated Rudd and an election has been called. Cabinet leaks, mad monks and warnings of invasions by asylum seekers and what appears to have been a directionless, bland and negative campaign have seen Labour's fortunes disappear and have led to this nil result.

We have listened to excellent ABC radio programs like Life Matters, Background Briefing and Counterpoint to keep abreast of developments. Also, Gruen Nation and Yes We Canberra have allowed us to be entertained and see some of the worst of political advertising.

This pathetic attempt to capture the middle ground by providing visionless policy has left us all feeling numb. The media is also to blame, with its horse race focus on polls and personalities. Stories of crocs choosing prime ministers, filleting fish, kicking footballs and standing under cars are trite and frustrating to the thinking voter.

And I used to think it wasn't as bad as in the US. How wrong I was.

I do like Phillip Adams' proposal to put a time limit on political election advertising.
3 minutes.
Minimum.
Remove these hit and run adverts and force our politicians to fill in the time with ideas that require some justification and argument.

We deserve better.

Bohemian Rhapsody

One of the biggest regrets we have while travelling is we needed more time in many places. And Prague needed more time. Three days isn't enough to see this exotic city where everything is within walking distance. Just as in so many European towns, the car is a hindrance and best left outside the city.

This city is the place to listen to the music of Queen and the Beatles. At least, we heard a lot of it while wandering the streets. Perhaps the Beatles music brings back memories of the Prague Spring in '68, when Russian tanks rolled into the city to squash any freedoms the Czechs hoped for during those heady days.


Fine dining at restaurants frequented by a young Einstein and writer Kafka, a day in the castle which overlooks the city, and seeing the art nouveau exhibition of Mucha's work were highlights.

This is a place to which we could return. So are Berlin, Munich, Provence, Lake Como and Rome. Another trip, perhaps?

Remembering the Lessons of History

One of the funniest Fawlty Towers episodes has misanthropic Basil whisper a warning to Polly, ‘Don’t mention the war.’ And, when one goes to Germany, heeding the same advice would be obvious.

However, when we visited here, we found it impossible to avoid thinking about this tragic event in history. There are so many memorials and signs that reference this pivotal period of Germany's recent past. Every city was affected in some way and even today, the signs are still obvious and poignant.

The rise and fall of the National Socialists has affected so much of Germany since. With so much of cities destroyed, buildings are categorised as pre-war or post-war and in many cities, very little survived. Reconstruction of the west under the Marshall plan produced an economic miracle and helped this country recover from the devastation. The pictures above show magnificent Cologne cathedral in 1945 and today.





We went to Dachau, and felt a sense of the horror of the concentration camps with their intention to kill millions through work. The wrought iron gates still display the chilling message: Arbeit Macht Frei. Visiting Berlin’s Judisches museum is also architecturally unsettling and portrays the tragic story of pogroms and displacement of the Jewish people over the centuries. One exhibit shows some of the few traces left of those sent off to the camps, such as a labelled suitcase as a personal reminder of its former owner.

Towns like Dorsten have placed small brass plaques on the footpaths commemorating the lives of Jewish families who once lived on these streets.


In Berlin, a visit to Norman Foster’s inspiring Reichstag's glass dome was worth the three hour wait. From its viewpoint, one can see memorials of events, including the Battle of Berlin that ended the war. The circular display beneath the spiral walkway tells the story and shows photographs of the Reichstag over the century.

Art galleries and museums also address the subject. Berlin’s Neue Art Gallery displays 20th Century art in categories of so-called Degenerate art or the Nazi regime’s preferred works. The local museum in Münster has exhibits describing the destruction of over 95% of this beautiful town and its subsequent recreation. Some remnants of buildings have been kept to remind us of war's devastation.

Measures like these have reflected a country that has come to terms with its difficult past and not shied from the horrors, but determined never to repeat them. Today it is illegal to display images of the Nazi era, such as flying the Nazi flag. A recent court case convicted a man for using a Hitler speech as his phone ring-tone.

Also evident are reminders of the Cold War years that divided a nation and took nearly 50 years to reunite. We traced the remnants of Berlin’s Wall to view sections painted with messages of hope. Standing there, one can see the difference in buildings on both sides of the former wall, with the East’s functional concrete structures decorated with social realism artwork celebrating the noble worker. You can even hire a clapped-out Trabant - convertible - to travel the streets of Berlin in style!

Germany is a wonderful place to visit, but reminders of the war are frequent and sad. If one can't mention the war, at least we remember it's impact on a continent, and indeed the entire world. Let's escape the reminders and visit another country - and go to Amsterdam - to see Anne Frank's house!

Bilbao's Famous Building

We visited lovely San Sebastian in Northern coastal Spain and enjoyed the tapas bar visits just like the locals. But, since we were so close to Bilbao, there was a strong magnetic attraction to drive to visit its world-famous Guggenheim museum. This is one of those cases where architecture puts a city on the world stage, just like Sydney and its Opera House.

And, in this case, the day trip was rewarding. The Guggenheim lived up to its reputation and a promenade through its galleries was a delight.



I have to say, I do find some modern art challenging. I give it respect, but sometimes want to snigger at some of the items on display. Some works appear that they have used little technique to produce and could be done by a good primary school student.

My own criteria is by asking the question, "Could I create or replicate this?". If the answer is "Yes", then I can't help but dismiss the work. But I do try to understand. We have visited London's Tate and many other galleries and there are many excellent works that provoke thought and appeal to my taste. But in the mix are others that makes me wonder that either someone is having a joke on us, or there is a mighty big con-job going on.

The problem with the arts is that there appears to be no criteria for quality. Maybe it’s the scientist in me, but some things in life seem more easily measured. The Olympic motto is Citius, Altius, Fortius, swifter, higher, stronger; each a measurable concept.

With the arts, what criteria are there for quality? Maybe a work is influential, innovative, of historical significance, or perhaps controversial. But influential or controversial, or even shocking is not sufficient to measure quality. Strangely, the controversy surrounding a painting can become part of its allure. Pollock’s Blue Poles is a must-see when it comes to town, if only to see what the fuss was about when it became a symbol of Whitlam government wastefulness.

And is there a rarity value in art? Did Picasso start producing many low-quality works in his later years, cashing in on his fame, because everyone wanted a piece of Picasso?

My own art gallery strategy is to wander through galleries and linger on works that captivate my interest - then enjoy them.


Guggenheim had a temporary exhibition of Indian artist Aanish Kapoor, and some exhibits were very appealing. The visit was memorable for us, and well worth the trip.

I wonder what artists think about the work of their peers. Are they dismissive or do they hold the work of other artists in high esteem? Did Jackson Pollock think of himself as a good artist, like Botticelli or Leonardo would regard their own talents? Were Dali or Warhol just good self-promoters? All have been influential, but perhaps only the modern artists would be described as controversial.

Top Ten Tourist Travel Tips - A list

Planning a travel itinerary involves a compromise between time and desire. We of course want to see so much while travelling, but do realise we have to temper that goal with what is achievable in the time available. Rick Steves' travel guides have been most valuable, but they are paced uncomfortably fast so that travellers following them must see the world pass in a blur. At the other extreme, I am far too impatient to spend my holidays lying on a lounge next to a pool.

Don't we love lists? Well, if not you, at least I do. Lists are always fun to arrange and prioritise some thoughts. And this year we are learning much about travelling. So, with our limited, but growing experience, here are our top ten European car travel tips. Some are not original, but we have adopted them and taken as our own.


1. Take twice as much money as you thought you'd need. Travelling is expensive!! Car travel is cheaper than public with more than two persons. I tell myself to over-ride usual reluctance to spend and just enjoy these once-in-a-lifetime experiences, even if it is costly. Just do it.
2. Carry half as much stuff. Reduce and rewear. Wash out what you have whenever you have a chance.
3. When in small towns, eat as the locals do. Spanish restaurants start serving dinner after 9.30 p.m. The French and Germans? - 8 pm. In Britain, trying to get something to eat after 7.30 means you will go hungry. Some Switzerland places close by 7.00 p.m. I think I am seeing a pattern that the hotter the climate, the later the dinner time.


4. Rest your head on fewer pillows. Cut down on the packing/unpacking and time spent getting acquainted with a new place. Make a base from which to take side trips. We think that 3 days was about right in many places to see the major sights.
5. Enjoy what is near your place. Avoid travel to far-off towns, and consider well if it is worth the trip. Our biggest mistake was to take a side trip to travel all the way from Tours to Bourges to see its famous cathedral, only to find something we could have seen back in Tours. And, to make matters worse, we ran out of time to see the cathedral of Tours anyway. The grass did not look greener that day after hours driving on a hot road.

6. Beware of trying to make transport connections that are tightly scheduled. This will guarantee to increase the stress levels when you are worrying if you will arrive on time. The travel times predicted by ViaMichellin or Google Maps consistently underestimate the actual driving time. Their estimations may be calculated by travelling at the maximum speed limits. Well, skimming along at 130 km/hr is quite a scary experience, especially on winding mountain roads. Then there are the slow trucks, caravans, wheelchairs (yes, we crawled behind a man on a wheelchair for a few km) and traffic jams that mean that getting to the next city for lunch is simply impossible. Add in a lunch and toilet break, and a supposedly 3 hour trip turns into 4½ all too easily.
7. Carry toilet paper in France. Not much fun to find out too late - twice! Enough said.
8. Don't expect the women in the group to be ready early. Mission impossible. Allow two hours to depart.

9. Try and buy local foods. Buying baguettes and fillers such as cheese and salami is much cheaper than packaged rolls. Anne also has a small steel thermos which has saved a fortune in hot drinks.
10. Lastly, if someone asks, "Can you tell me what is the best thing to do when travelling to Switzerland on a budget?", the answer is, "Don't go!". Yes, tongue-in-cheek, but we had a wonderful time there in the Lautebrunnen valley. The views are stunning - and free!

To get into the spirit of each country, we play local music on the ipod while driving. Whether it's a stereotypical accordion playing in France, or oompah in Germany, it is all fun and rather charming.

Italy: Dean Martin singing Volare or That's Amore (I can't believe I was playing my dad's music!) and Andrea Bocelli's opera.
Germany: Bouncing along to the catchy Chicken Dance Polka, 1000km Bis Zum Meer by Luxuslärm, and Nena's catchy 99 Luftballoons.
In Bayeux we listened to Bonnie Tyler's Lost in France and Edith Piaf's soulful songs.
Spain: Freddie Mercury belting out Barcelona is hard to beat, and Sarah Brightman and friend singing Amigo Para Sempre adds some spice.

So, this travelling is enlightening and we are slowly learning how to do it better.