There is a story of a traveller on an organised tour who was carefully taking notes of each place on the itinerary. The tour guide noticed that occasionally the traveller would simply record 'ABC'. When asked as to the coded meaning, the traveller replied, 'Another Bloody Church'.
Cathedrals are designed to be big... impressive... awesome. And they succeed. Designed to inspire, they are a credit to the commitment of past societies, many small, which built such amazing edificies. Most took many generations to complete and almost every city has one in a prime position. The architecture is impressive with similar designs to allow tall buildings to stay upright ... for centuries.
The development of the flying buttress was a design feature discovered by the master builders of the middle ages. Masonry has excellent compression properties, but little tensile strength. Medieval architects did not have steel to reinforce their buildings, and the flying buttress allowed the distribution of forces to the ground without tension. The Romans discovered the arch and medieval builders used this architectural development to construct their magnificent edifices. These designs allowed the buildings to be light and have sunlight enter through intricate stained glass windows. These are colourful, even if one needs binoculars to see the details.
Unfortunately, one of the signs of tiring is the feeling that we have seen another bloody church, and they begin to appear similar. Which they do. And although I have enjoyed seeing them in their settings, there is that sameness that has crept into our visits.
That was ... until Barcelona.
The Sagrada Familia is a massive structure by any benchmark. It is loud and ostentatious and it appears as if the designer aimed to out-do all competition in cathedral building.
It has a great wow-factor that brings out a reaction from all who enter. Before I visited, I thought the exterior was loud and unnecessarily excessive. Why have one tall spire, when eighteen will do the job better? Twelve for the apostles, four evangelists, Mary and the yet to be built tallest one for Jesus. It is just .. too much.
Gaudi designed his buildings in the modernista style, and this one has it all. He developed a way to remove the time-tested flying buttress, and his ideas use natural elements seen during his childhood in rural Spain.
The massive columns have been transformed into tall trees, and one looks up into a forest canopy.
We walked through a giant construction site and witnessed the building of an engineering marvel. Architects are attempting to maintain integrity with Gaudi's original design, but can now use modern materials. And like the medieval cathedrals, this one has taken so far over a century to complete. It may be finished in 20 years if all augurs well. In one poignant moment, I watched an elderly engineer being guided through the construction site by younger colleagues. They supported him as they walked down the almost-completed transept, turned him around to look up, and all marvelled at the project they were honoured to be building.
Described as God's architect by some, Gaudi's cathedral will not please everyone. But it certainly impressed me. Those stained glass windows blend the colour spectrum in ways I have never seen before. And it was magnificent. Gaudi's work has influenced many, from Gehry to Dr. Seuss. If you don't believe me, go and look up the making of The Grinch movie.
I didn't want to leave and had another look around. When a guide asked me what I thought at the end of my visit, my answer was, 'After this, I can never enjoy another cathedral again'.
I have been impressed so often this year, but the visit to Gaudi's cathedral was indeed a highlight. Wow!!
Thursday, 5 August 2010
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